2020 Orfila Vineyards Lagrein and Tri-tip Steak
Background on story & Lagrein
Two new friends were out to California wine tasting in April. While we went to many wineries in 4 separate sub-AVA’s, she mentioned Orfila Vineyards Lagrein was one of her favorites. I had not tasted it before but while visiting here in Arizona (where they live), they gave me a bottle. Opened it up for a dinner and that is how this story came to be and I was so pleased with the wine!
A quick background on Lagrein being a dark black grape from South Tyrol in Northern Italy. The grape is a descendant of Teroldego and related to Syrah so you know it is going to be a dark bold wine! The grapes dates back to the 17th century.
From the California Grape Crush final report for 2023 Lagrein represented a phenomenal small amount of the crush coming in at .02%. The total red wine grape crush represented 1,970,643 tons and Lagrein portion was only 478 tons. Most of the grapes (92%) came from Zone 8 (comprising San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, and Ventura Counties) and Zone 11 (portions of San Joaquin and Sacramento counties).
The Winery
The winery is located at 13455 San Pasqual Road in Escondido, California in San Pasqual Valley about 30 minutes from San Diego. The tasting is on their 70 acre estate. Orfila opened in 1994 and has an impressive record of wining over 1,300 medals from various competitions. Their focus in has been Italian and French varietals. They source the grapes from their estate as well as select vineyards from Sonoma, San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara counties. Andrew Wisniewski is their winemaker. The vineyards have been growing in this location since 1973 and was initially the San Pasqual Winery. It later became the Thomas Jaeger Winery. Then in 1993 Alejandro Orfila purchased the winery and thus the name Orfila Winery.
Today they make an assortment of wines including the white wines of Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Chardonnay. Their reds include Merlot, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Syrah and a few blends. Additionally they have a sparkling and a Rosé wine.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine was the quintessential Lagrein and the best tasted to date! First on eyes, a cavernous deep almost black coloration and full body viscosity. On the nose the fragrance was evident without holding the glass up to the nose with fruits of plums blackberry aromas dominating with flowering violets. On the palate the fruits showed their core essence without the sweetness but with deep flavors contrasting with leather, minerality and an earthiness. On the finish, herbal notes of black pepper, licorice and old-world chewiness. The tannins which are normally strong in this varietal were present but more silky than jagged. The acidity was definitely noticed but not overtly so to ruin the wonderful finish.
The wine came in at 14.2% alcohol with only 640 cases produced. The barrel treatment was unique with 15% being new French oak, 15% 1-3 year barrels, 50% being 3-5 year barrels and 20% neutral barrels. The wine lists for $44/bottle.
This wine will make my annual list of Best Wines tasted during 2024. That list is limited to less than 5% of some 1600-1800 wines tasted during the year! The annual report comes out in December.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine was paired with a 24 hour marinated tri-tip steak and cooked in the smoker. Cherry wood pellets were used. My son-in-law, while not giving away his marinade recipe, I did observe a heavy dose of whisky being added! Accompanied by steamed broccoli and smashed potatoes. A delicious food and wine pairing with the meat smoked in cherry wood and the flavors of Orfila Lagrein….near perfection!
Sláinte,
Michael