2017 Taddei Wines Indindoli Vineyard – Now Two Great Choices!
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Met again with Chris Taddei of Taddei Wines located at the southern portion of Windsor at 7730 Bell Road where he has his tasting room as well as crush pad and barrel storage. He also does custom crushing for many clients. While not having a lot of time, he once again provided some excellent information on Sonoma County winemaking and how the harvest is shaping up. We also had an opportunity to taste several of his mouth watering wines.
Background
After graduating from University of Hawaii in Economics and Political Science Chris moved to Seattle for a high tech company. He started making wines in his garage, and started making wines professionally in 2003. After he moved to Sonoma County, he was mentored by Carmine Indindoli and was passionate about understanding wine making especially wine chemistry. His love affair with wine started when he graduated from college and bought a bottle of La Tache at dinner. That wine was his ah-ha moment and as he stated “he had no idea a bottle of wine could be so profound”. When I asked him what attracted him to Pinot Noir he responded “Pinot is moody and seductive, it’s not like other varietals”. He finished off the conversation with a profound sentence stating “Wine is the greatest communication tool ever made. I feel lucky to be able to make something that can be shared in such a positive way”.
During my short visit I was once again impressed at the wide range of his production. Here is a listing of his current releases incorporating different vintages, vineyards, treatments (oaked or unoaked), etc.:
Zinfandel (2),Cabernet Sauvignon (13),Rose (2),Chardonnay (5),Merlot (1),Cabernet Franc (5), Blends (2 or more), Sauvignon Blanc (3), Pinot Noir (8), GSM (1), Barbera (1), Viognier (1).
For only making 1,000 cases a year, he has focused on small lots, many being only one or two barrels. He has been producing small and boutique lots of wines for over twenty years.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Tasting two of his Pinot Noir wines, the 2018 and 2017, left me with a difficult choice on which one to take home with me. I previously took home the 2018 and it made my Best Wines list tasting for 2023. On this visit, tasted the 2017 and was equally “blown away”.
Finding a good Pinot Noir can be an illusionary quest. Pinot Noir wine has a double axis: one for taste and one for price/quality ratio. As a friend of mine has stated for years, Pinot Noir is either very good or it can be skunky! I can provide some great direction on Pinot Noir wines near, at or above the $100/price level. The difficulty is finding one closer to an everyday or once a week price point (sub $50). This comes close at $65/bottle and wine club members get a 25% discount (case) or $48.75. Classic Pinot Noir grown in warmer weather tend to be riper and the acid softens a bit. Grown in Sonoma County you get a wonderful blend of heat and cooling fog providing the ideal climate for Pinot Noir.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Now about this magnificent wine. First on the eyes, a ruby and brick coloring with a semi-translucent clarity and light-medium viscosity. On the nose, rose petals and freshly picked strawberry aromas waft in the senses. On the palate surprising and welcomed “heavier than expected” and almost chewy tannins appear yet velvety. Spices of cinnamon and nutmeg, along with prominent strawberry flavors co-mingled with red cherries created a delightful and caressing explosion in the mouth. The tannins and high acidity were nearly perfectly balanced with the forward fruit to round out the experience. The finish provided some nuances of minerality, deeply intertwined structure and was long lasting. The wine provided just the right amount of fruit. Often I have spoken of Pinot Noir as being feminine like a ballet dancer as opposed to a hearty Cabernet Sauvignon being a heavy weight boxer. This wine similar to the 2018, provided a solid compromise between the two polar opposites, providing a soft presence yet a noticeable punch. This wine was in 100% new French oak barrels, one from Billion and one from Damy.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this wine to pair with a BBQ’d pork tenderloin. A homemade dry rub was prepared with chili powder, brown sugar, dried oregano, paprika, cinnamon, garlic powder, fine sea salt and a little extra virgin olive oil. The slices of pork tenderloin each provided ample flavors to assimilate the refreshing wine. The meal was accompanied by a sautéed medley of broccoli & mushrooms, Yukon Gold potato and a garden salad. The pork tenderloin was moist and juicy thanks to a tip from a friend! The wine calmed down the little spiciness and earthiness of the rub on the tenderloin and the wine fruit came across even brighter. Adding a dollop of Stewart & Jasper Orchards Cherry Pepper Sauce blended well with the pork. A very good food and wine pairing!
So both the 2017 and 2018 will make my Best Wines tasted in 2023! That list comes out annually about mid-December.
Sláinte,
Michael