2022 New Clairvaux Assyrtiko – Tehama County in the Spotlight
Background
I received word from the California State Fair Wine Competition that a “different winery” and unique wine won Best of White Wine of California and it was New Clairvaux’s 2022 Assyrtiko. They also won Best Region White Wine, Best of Show White Wine and Double Gold Medals!
Below is from an earlier story I did on Assyrtiko from Santorini:
Not an everyday household varietal but perhaps it should be! Firstly, this wine is indigenous to Santorini and was the wine of choice from 3500 BC to 1620 BC as the wine center in the Aegean Sea. In 1620 BC, one of the largest volcanic eruptions occurred in the last 10,000 years on Santorini. It covered the island in volcanic ash which provides a unique soil for Assyrtiko grapes to grow. Secondly, the pronunciation is “ase-ry-tiko”.
The island with its volcanic soil, the Assyrtiko vines can go down as far as 60 meters! This depth is one of the key components in giving this grape a minerality like no other grapes. Assyrtiko vines comprise 70% of the production wines of Santorini. Also some of the vines go 60-200 years in age. But perhaps one of the unique things is the training of vines in a circular basket/wreath formation. With the grapes growing on the inside, it provides shade from the hot summer sun and protects the grapes from the fierce winds of the island. The basket is called a “kouloura”.
So when I heard that Assyrtiko won from Tehama County, a long way from the ocean my curiosity got the better and did some investigation. No they don’t use the basket technique but typical wine trellis.
The Winery — A Rich History
This is a paraphrase and edited about the winery from their website:
Photo from New Clairvaux Winery
For more than 150 years, some of California’s most innovative and industrious winemakers worked this area, called “Vina Loam”. Geologists attribute the characteristics of “Vina Loam” to volcanic silt carried from Mt. Lassen to the mouth of Deer Creek at the Sacramento River. Peter Lassen planted a one-acre wine grape vineyard in 1846 to replenish supplies for those coming off their journey to Mt Lassen. In 1852, Henry Gerke expanded the vineyards to 100 acres. He established the small town of Vina and started shipping his wines worldwide. Railroad magnate and Governor of California, Leland Stanford took a keen interest in this development. In 1881, Stanford purchased the land and expanded it to over 55,000 acres. The construction of worlds the largest wine operations took place with over 2 acres in the plant. Today, just 1/4 of it is used for the winery production.
The name started in 1098, when a group of Benedictine monks broke off and established a monastery called Citeaux in Burgundy, France. With vows of poverty and labor, they prospered. Soon they constructed an Abbey and planted what is now one of the more famous vineyards in the world– Clos De Vougeot. This new order of monks became known as Cistercians, and their legacy of winemaking would become renowned. Cistercian vineyards were planted throughout Europe; the monks were responsible for propagating varietals common to this day such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Tempranillo and Riesling. They also developed the viticultural practices of trellising, water management and leaf thinning all for the unique and betterment of grape growing.
Photo from New Clairvaux Winery
Today, Trappist-Cistercians continue to dedicate their lives to personal prayer, communal prayer and manual labor. It is through these works and offerings of thanksgiving that they show their love and appreciation of God and their fellow human beings. They do this by striving to produce the highest-quality product attainable. This is expressed by the simple words “Trappist Made Product,” so that in all things God may be glorified. They do not take on a vow of silence, but avoid any unnecessary communication, including have meals in silence or when passing in hallways.
Photo from New Clairvaux Winery
The Sunseri family, a long time winemaking family, began to explore the possibility of partnering with the Abbey of New Clairvaux to revitalize Vina’s rich viticultural past. It would begin in 2000 with two experimental vineyards. Aimée Sunseri is today the winemaker, with many vintages and national and international awards.
Today besides the Assyrtiko they produce Syrah, Viognier, Barbera, Trebbiano, Moschofilero, Primitivo, Friulano, Semillon and various red and white blends. Their first year of production was 900 cases and today they are producing 15,000 cases.
The Wine — “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The grape varietal is known besides its minerality, to have citrus, apple, honeysuckle, passion fruit, pear, lime and beeswax. This New Clairvaux wine on the eyes a light shade of yellow and medium viscosity. On the nose, honeysuckle was predominate. On the palate, along with citrus flavors of lemon and lime, giving way to a firm minerality. Also in the mouth, such a rich mouth filling presence, so much more than Viognier or Chardonnay and with a high degree of acidity. This wine was made for oysters, salmon, trout, shrimp and shell seafood. The wine sells for $21/bottle. Tax and shipping in small quantities adds about $12/13 per bottle. The quality of wine starts in vineyard with care of vines by the Monks and continues through hand picking and hand sorting, although Aimée mentioned during the sorting no leaves or MOG is in the bins as they are meticulous when picking.
The Food and Wine Pairing — “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Having had a few Assyrtiko’s in the past this wine was chosen for this evening’s dinner. It started out with very salty cheese appetizers of Edam and Bleu cheese. This wine was excellent with the both, but especially the Bleu cheese being able to standup to such a strong flavor and melting in one’s mouth.
Photos ©Michael Kelly
Then with the dinner, fresh oysters were served with minced chives, horseradish and a drop or two of Tabasco sauce. Again a wonderful pairing. The main dish was Petrale Sole cooked in white wine, freshly squeezed lemon & lime juice, honey and a little butter. Plated and served with freshly chopped parsley with lemon slices. The fresh fish and oysters were picked up at Ohana’s Seafood in Modesto.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Other dishes this evening included a beautiful plated salad prepared by our guests, and asparagus and mushroom baked with Parmesan cheese, and rice. Fresh raspberries and blackberries were the dessert.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A few other beautiful white wines were also served: Lavender Ridge Côtes du Calaveras Blanc (a blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Rolle) and 2021 Wood Family Vineyard Chardonnay.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Obviously this Assyrtiko wine made my list of Best Wines Tasted in 2023 under $50. The annual list comes out in mid-December yearly.
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.newclairvauxvineyard.com/
June 30, 2023 at 5:42 am
Beautiful article.
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June 30, 2023 at 1:12 pm
Thank you!