2018 Taddei Wines, Indindoli Vineyards Pinot Noir – A Great Chance Encounter
The Winery and Background
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Sometimes in a chance meeting, you find exactly what you have been looking for! So it happened to me, as I was to meet another winemaker, I ended up spending some time with Chris Taddei, winemaker and owner of Taddei Wines. This chance encounter with Chris turned out to be “gold mine” of information and a producer of some excellent quality wines. He has been producing small and boutique lots of wines for over twenty years. He is located at the southern portion of Windsor at 7730 Bell Road where he has his tasting room as well as crush pad and barrel storage. He also does custom crushing for many clients.
After graduating from University of Hawaii in Economics and Political Science Chris moved to Seattle for a high tech company. He started making wines in his garage, and started making wines professionally in 2003. After he moved to Sonoma County, he was mentored by Carmine Indindoli and was passionate about understanding wine making especially wine chemistry. His love affair with wine started when he graduated from college and bought a bottle of La Tache at dinner. That wine was his ah-ha moment and as he stated “he had no idea a bottle of wine could be so profound”. When I asked him what attracted him to Pinot Noir he responded “Pinot is moody and seductive, it’s not like other varietals”. He finished off the conversation with a profound sentence stating “Wine is the greatest communication tool ever made. I feel lucky to be able to make something that can be shared in such a positive way”.
During my short visit I tasted a few of his wines, but the amplitude of his production is amazing! Here is a listing of his current releases incorporating different vintages, vineyards, treatments (oaked or unoaked), etc.:
Zinfandel (2)
Cabernet Sauvignon (13)
Rose (2)
Chardonnay (5)
Merlot (1)
Cabernet Franc (5)
Blends (2 or more)
Sauvignon Blanc (3)
Pinot Noir (8)
GSM (1)
Barbera (1)
Viognier (1)
For only making 1,000 cases a year, he has focused on small lots, many being only one or two barrel.
The Wine, 2018 Taddei Wines, Indindoli Vineyards — “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I tasted three of his Pinot Noir wines. Two especially hit my bullseye! Finding a good Pinot Noir can be an illusionary quest. Pinot Noir wine have a double axis on finding the right one. The first axis is taste. As a friend of mine has stated for years, Pinot Noir is either very good or it can be skunky! The second axis is pricing. I can provide some great direction on Pinot Noir wines near, at or above the $100/price level. The difficulty is finding one closer to an everyday price point (sub $50). This comes close at $65/bottle and wine club members get a 25% discount (case) or $48.75. Classic Pinot Noir grown in warmer weather tend to be riper and the acid softens a bit. Grown in Sonoma County you get a blend of heat and cooling fog providing the ideal climate for Pinot Noir.
Now about this magnificent wine. First on the eyes, a ruby and brick coloring with a semi-translucent clarity and light-medium viscosity. On the nose, rose petals and freshly picked raspberry aromas waft in the senses. On the palate surprising and welcomed “heavier than expected” and almost chewy tannins appear. Spices of cinnamon and nutmeg, along with prominent strawberry flavors co-mingled with raspberry and cherry created a delightful and caressing explosion in the mouth. The tannins and high acidity were nearly perfectly balanced with the forward fruit to round out the experience. The finish provided some nuances of minerality, deeply intertwined structure and was long lasting. I have often spoken of Pinot Noir as being feminine like a ballet dancer as opposed to a hearty Cabernet Sauvignon being a heavy weight boxer. This wine provides a solid compromise between the two polar opposites, providing a soft presence yet a noticeable punch. He does make a “lighter version” and that story will follow in a few weeks. This wine was in 100% new oak with one barrel being French and one being Hungarian.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with a seasoned Filet Mignon, seared on the BBQ at 1200 degrees and served medium rare. One of the first times I have tried a Pinot Noir with a Filet Mignon and I was delighted with the “heavier Pinot Noir” both standing up to the charbroiled steak and acidity cutting through the meat. Both were enhanced in this pairing. Served with seasoned and roasted Baby Red and Yukon potato slices and topped with bacon. Accompanied by fresh broccoli and a Cesar salad.
So while by happenstance we met, it is no accident that this wine will go into my annual Best Wines Tasted for 2023!
Sláinte,
Michael