Month: June 2023
Corti Brothers 2017 Cabernet Franc, “Canzoniere” A Big Winner At International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition – International Division
The Background
While this is how I usually start out my stories, this is “not a winery” per se. Corti Brothers is a throwback neighborhood and ethnic local market from the 50’s and 60’s. With the epicurean renaissance of the younger generations (alphabet folks, Gen X, Gen Y, Gen Z and various others), they are looking for fresh, organic, original foods. So while throwback, perhaps they really are setting the trend and catering to the future. Frank and Gino Corti started the grocery store in 1947 to expand and offer a culinary experience to the Sacramento community. While calling it a grocery store, they offer all kinds of fresh produce, upmarket food items, a full feature delicatessen and an array of fine wines. They are located at 5810 Folsom Blvd in Sacramento just of Hwy 50.
Photo from Corti Brothers website
Darrell Corti is the impetus behind the wine selections of the store. Rick Mindermann, the GM, stated they have “an eclectic and unique wine selections” from Europe, Eastern Europe and anything Darrell finds interesting or of historic importance to the wine world. Darrell’s grandfather was born in Italy and those roots/heritage are important to him. He spent some time at the University of Madrid and today speaks seven languages. Darrell was one of several folks bringing back to life Amador County Zinfandel. Darrell was introduced at UC Davis as the “Dean of Food & Wine of California” which is an understatement. His wealth of knowledge extends worldwide on food and wine. Here is a short U-Tube video clip worth seeing https://youtu.be/eP9o7pvFKEY . His curiosity and inquisitiveness knows no limit.
Photos ©Michael Kelly
Corti Brothers entered the 4th Annual International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition, March 2023 and took way all the awards in the International Division. Many wines from Chile and Hungary were entered and his 2017 Canzoniere Cabernet Franc was awarded Best of Class and Best of Show by both the Professional and People’s Judges. The Professional Judges also awarded a Gold Medal and People’s Choice Judges awarded Double Gold Medals. Because of his close relationship with his friend in Italy, all the awards were shipped to him as the winemaker.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Darrell travelled with Rick to Italy in 2018 and tasted the 2017 vintage still in barrel at a friend’s estate in the Colli Euganei, just outside Padova in Italy’s Veneto region (north eastern area). Darrell and Rick were in Italy attending the CIBUS, famous food event. Darrell tasted the wine and enjoyed the aroma and balance of the wine and on the spot asked if they would keep that barrel and bottle it for Corti Brothers separately. The wine was bottled in late spring of 2021 and clearly is a fine example of Cabernet Franc from Italy. In the Veneto region Cabernet Franc has been grown since the early 1800’s. It is 100% Cabernet Franc. Darrell is also pragmatic in determining the best wines. With a small group of friends, and several open bottles, the bottle first emptied is considered the best wine!
On the eyes, a beautiful and enticing ruby red coloring with a medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose a restrained aroma of violets and raspberry. But this timid aromatic wine comes bounding to life on the palate. Strong red and black fruits, with a hint of vanilla and sweet pipe tobacco provide a mouth filling and delightful experience. On the finish, soft velvety tannins are noted, but coat the throat without any sharp edges. A hint of rustic Old World wine making (perhaps the barrels), also is noted on the finish. The wine sells for $40/bottle and personally, it worth every penny!! While the label states DOC, this is a real thoroughbred of Cabernet Franc. This is a one-time offering and when gone, it is gone.
The Canzoniere name was chosen from the works of the poet Petrarca, 1330-1374, known as the father of Humanism and setting the stage for the Renaissance in Italy. His picture adorns the label. His influence was known world-wide for his notions of unattainable and unrequited love, i.e., Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, Browning’s “Sonnet 43”, Wordsworth, Sir Thomas Wyatt and others. One of his famous quotes is “Five enemies of peace inhabit with us – avarice, ambition, envy, anger, and pride; if these were to be banished, we should infallibly enjoy perpetual peace”.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with a whole wheat spaghetti pasta with a Bolognese sauce of ground beef, minced Italian sausage, diced onions and tomato sauce. Accompanied by freshly steamed broccoli and a garden salad (not shown). An exquisite food and wine pairing. Enjoyed one glass with the meal and another sipping after dinner without food as it was so smooth and refreshingly alive.
Sláinte,
Michael
2022 New Clairvaux Assyrtiko – Tehama County in the Spotlight
Background
I received word from the California State Fair Wine Competition that a “different winery” and unique wine won Best of White Wine of California and it was New Clairvaux’s 2022 Assyrtiko. They also won Best Region White Wine, Best of Show White Wine and Double Gold Medals!
Below is from an earlier story I did on Assyrtiko from Santorini:
Not an everyday household varietal but perhaps it should be! Firstly, this wine is indigenous to Santorini and was the wine of choice from 3500 BC to 1620 BC as the wine center in the Aegean Sea. In 1620 BC, one of the largest volcanic eruptions occurred in the last 10,000 years on Santorini. It covered the island in volcanic ash which provides a unique soil for Assyrtiko grapes to grow. Secondly, the pronunciation is “ase-ry-tiko”.
The island with its volcanic soil, the Assyrtiko vines can go down as far as 60 meters! This depth is one of the key components in giving this grape a minerality like no other grapes. Assyrtiko vines comprise 70% of the production wines of Santorini. Also some of the vines go 60-200 years in age. But perhaps one of the unique things is the training of vines in a circular basket/wreath formation. With the grapes growing on the inside, it provides shade from the hot summer sun and protects the grapes from the fierce winds of the island. The basket is called a “kouloura”.
So when I heard that Assyrtiko won from Tehama County, a long way from the ocean my curiosity got the better and did some investigation. No they don’t use the basket technique but typical wine trellis.
The Winery — A Rich History
This is a paraphrase and edited about the winery from their website:
Photo from New Clairvaux Winery
For more than 150 years, some of California’s most innovative and industrious winemakers worked this area, called “Vina Loam”. Geologists attribute the characteristics of “Vina Loam” to volcanic silt carried from Mt. Lassen to the mouth of Deer Creek at the Sacramento River. Peter Lassen planted a one-acre wine grape vineyard in 1846 to replenish supplies for those coming off their journey to Mt Lassen. In 1852, Henry Gerke expanded the vineyards to 100 acres. He established the small town of Vina and started shipping his wines worldwide. Railroad magnate and Governor of California, Leland Stanford took a keen interest in this development. In 1881, Stanford purchased the land and expanded it to over 55,000 acres. The construction of worlds the largest wine operations took place with over 2 acres in the plant. Today, just 1/4 of it is used for the winery production.
The name started in 1098, when a group of Benedictine monks broke off and established a monastery called Citeaux in Burgundy, France. With vows of poverty and labor, they prospered. Soon they constructed an Abbey and planted what is now one of the more famous vineyards in the world– Clos De Vougeot. This new order of monks became known as Cistercians, and their legacy of winemaking would become renowned. Cistercian vineyards were planted throughout Europe; the monks were responsible for propagating varietals common to this day such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Tempranillo and Riesling. They also developed the viticultural practices of trellising, water management and leaf thinning all for the unique and betterment of grape growing.
Photo from New Clairvaux Winery
Today, Trappist-Cistercians continue to dedicate their lives to personal prayer, communal prayer and manual labor. It is through these works and offerings of thanksgiving that they show their love and appreciation of God and their fellow human beings. They do this by striving to produce the highest-quality product attainable. This is expressed by the simple words “Trappist Made Product,” so that in all things God may be glorified. They do not take on a vow of silence, but avoid any unnecessary communication, including have meals in silence or when passing in hallways.
Photo from New Clairvaux Winery
The Sunseri family, a long time winemaking family, began to explore the possibility of partnering with the Abbey of New Clairvaux to revitalize Vina’s rich viticultural past. It would begin in 2000 with two experimental vineyards. Aimée Sunseri is today the winemaker, with many vintages and national and international awards.
Today besides the Assyrtiko they produce Syrah, Viognier, Barbera, Trebbiano, Moschofilero, Primitivo, Friulano, Semillon and various red and white blends. Their first year of production was 900 cases and today they are producing 15,000 cases.
The Wine — “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The grape varietal is known besides its minerality, to have citrus, apple, honeysuckle, passion fruit, pear, lime and beeswax. This New Clairvaux wine on the eyes a light shade of yellow and medium viscosity. On the nose, honeysuckle was predominate. On the palate, along with citrus flavors of lemon and lime, giving way to a firm minerality. Also in the mouth, such a rich mouth filling presence, so much more than Viognier or Chardonnay and with a high degree of acidity. This wine was made for oysters, salmon, trout, shrimp and shell seafood. The wine sells for $21/bottle. Tax and shipping in small quantities adds about $12/13 per bottle. The quality of wine starts in vineyard with care of vines by the Monks and continues through hand picking and hand sorting, although Aimée mentioned during the sorting no leaves or MOG is in the bins as they are meticulous when picking.
The Food and Wine Pairing — “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Having had a few Assyrtiko’s in the past this wine was chosen for this evening’s dinner. It started out with very salty cheese appetizers of Edam and Bleu cheese. This wine was excellent with the both, but especially the Bleu cheese being able to standup to such a strong flavor and melting in one’s mouth.
Photos ©Michael Kelly
Then with the dinner, fresh oysters were served with minced chives, horseradish and a drop or two of Tabasco sauce. Again a wonderful pairing. The main dish was Petrale Sole cooked in white wine, freshly squeezed lemon & lime juice, honey and a little butter. Plated and served with freshly chopped parsley with lemon slices. The fresh fish and oysters were picked up at Ohana’s Seafood in Modesto.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Other dishes this evening included a beautiful plated salad prepared by our guests, and asparagus and mushroom baked with Parmesan cheese, and rice. Fresh raspberries and blackberries were the dessert.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A few other beautiful white wines were also served: Lavender Ridge Côtes du Calaveras Blanc (a blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Rolle) and 2021 Wood Family Vineyard Chardonnay.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Obviously this Assyrtiko wine made my list of Best Wines Tasted in 2023 under $50. The annual list comes out in mid-December yearly.
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.newclairvauxvineyard.com/
Wine Enthusiast Announcement Combining Their Catalog and Magazine Business
Photos ©Michael Kelly
Last week I attended the announcement of Wine Enthusiast combining their two separate businesses at an evening celebration. It was held at Louis M. Martini Winery in Saint Helena, California. The well-known Wine Enthusiast Catalog representing their commerce side reaching millions of consumers via direct mail and various other means combined with Wine Enthusiast magazine. The magazine is an award winning print publication featuring wine news, food trends and does over 25,000 wine ratings annually. The new entity will be as proclaimed by CEO Adam Strum, the indisputable hub for everything wine. It further reiterated the company’s mission statement “We Bring Wine to Life”. Below Jacqueline Strum, President providing details on the merger to the attendees with Gallo family nearby.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This was co-sponsored with The Gallo Family Vineyards a $5 billion family run business. They are the USA’s largest wine producer, owning several different wineries such as Martini, MacMurray Estate Vineyards, Mirassou, Orin Swift, Talbott Vineyards, and William Hill Estate, along with highly acclaimed imports, such as Alamos, Brancaia, La Marca, Las Rocas, Martín Códax, Whitehaven, and LUX Wines, importers of Allegrini, Argiano, Jermann, Pieropan and Renato Ratti. In total 75 million cases were sold last year.
Photos ©Michael Kelly
Some excellent wines and appetizers greeted the guests and the facility definitely provided a “top drawer” event for the attendees. Besides Louis M Martini Winery pouring some of the better wines and even a Magnum of their Cabernet Sauvignon, winemaker Mark Williams was gracious in serving guests their special “Stagecoach” Cabernet Sauvignon.
Sláinte,
Michael
2010 Chêne Bleu Abélard
Truly a remarkable wine on so many levels–from the land, the label, the history and the wine. Firstly, the area is in the Rhone Valley and sits on top of a hillside in Provence, near Gigondas. Here is a picture from their website.
Secondly, the label is as mysterious and elusive as the wine. The label shows their respect of the land and history. They show on the label dozens of references as to what makes their wine and project so unique. Embedded in the label are five “bunny rabbits”. They use to advertise find them and submit to “Where’s Fluffy?” for a prize from the winery!
Now add the name and its meaning for the third facet of this wine. Abélard is one of two of their leading wines, Héloïse the other. In the Middle Ages, Abélard was a theologian and philosopher who had an illicit romance with his disciple Héloïse. Unfortunately they were forced into separation but their love lasted decades of monastic seclusion and correspondence. Abélard, the Grenache blend, is strong, bold and structured. Whereas Héloïse, the Syrah blend, shows a more elegant and softer side with restraint. The winery made both of these wines to showcase their uncompromising commitment of their love, passion and thinking of their vineyard.
While all of this and I haven’t even begun talking the wine! If these auxiliary points were not enough to entice you to explore getting this wine, hopefully the description will. Initially when pulling this out of the cellar with a listing of Grenache/Syrah, I was expecting a mild and light French Grenache. This was so far from reality. This is perhaps one of the largest and extremely robust French wines I have had the opportunity to drink. This is a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah that spent 18 months in French oak barrels.
On the eyes, it is a deep ruby red and medium weight. On the nose, aromas of blueberries, licorice and black berries almost overwhelm the senses. The spices of various herbs (pepper & sage) linger in the background. On the palate, one is astonished with the liveliness of raspberries, cherry and mocha which make this wine plush and layered. The finish offers up supple tannins with just enough oak to provide “a passing hint of old world” winemaking. This is truly a rich and concentrated offering.
This is must wine to be sought after for a memorable experience.
Slainte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.chenebleu.com
2018 Taddei Wines, Indindoli Vineyards Pinot Noir – A Great Chance Encounter
The Winery and Background
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Sometimes in a chance meeting, you find exactly what you have been looking for! So it happened to me, as I was to meet another winemaker, I ended up spending some time with Chris Taddei, winemaker and owner of Taddei Wines. This chance encounter with Chris turned out to be “gold mine” of information and a producer of some excellent quality wines. He has been producing small and boutique lots of wines for over twenty years. He is located at the southern portion of Windsor at 7730 Bell Road where he has his tasting room as well as crush pad and barrel storage. He also does custom crushing for many clients.
After graduating from University of Hawaii in Economics and Political Science Chris moved to Seattle for a high tech company. He started making wines in his garage, and started making wines professionally in 2003. After he moved to Sonoma County, he was mentored by Carmine Indindoli and was passionate about understanding wine making especially wine chemistry. His love affair with wine started when he graduated from college and bought a bottle of La Tache at dinner. That wine was his ah-ha moment and as he stated “he had no idea a bottle of wine could be so profound”. When I asked him what attracted him to Pinot Noir he responded “Pinot is moody and seductive, it’s not like other varietals”. He finished off the conversation with a profound sentence stating “Wine is the greatest communication tool ever made. I feel lucky to be able to make something that can be shared in such a positive way”.
During my short visit I tasted a few of his wines, but the amplitude of his production is amazing! Here is a listing of his current releases incorporating different vintages, vineyards, treatments (oaked or unoaked), etc.:
Zinfandel (2)
Cabernet Sauvignon (13)
Rose (2)
Chardonnay (5)
Merlot (1)
Cabernet Franc (5)
Blends (2 or more)
Sauvignon Blanc (3)
Pinot Noir (8)
GSM (1)
Barbera (1)
Viognier (1)
For only making 1,000 cases a year, he has focused on small lots, many being only one or two barrel.
The Wine, 2018 Taddei Wines, Indindoli Vineyards — “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I tasted three of his Pinot Noir wines. Two especially hit my bullseye! Finding a good Pinot Noir can be an illusionary quest. Pinot Noir wine have a double axis on finding the right one. The first axis is taste. As a friend of mine has stated for years, Pinot Noir is either very good or it can be skunky! The second axis is pricing. I can provide some great direction on Pinot Noir wines near, at or above the $100/price level. The difficulty is finding one closer to an everyday price point (sub $50). This comes close at $65/bottle and wine club members get a 25% discount (case) or $48.75. Classic Pinot Noir grown in warmer weather tend to be riper and the acid softens a bit. Grown in Sonoma County you get a blend of heat and cooling fog providing the ideal climate for Pinot Noir.
Now about this magnificent wine. First on the eyes, a ruby and brick coloring with a semi-translucent clarity and light-medium viscosity. On the nose, rose petals and freshly picked raspberry aromas waft in the senses. On the palate surprising and welcomed “heavier than expected” and almost chewy tannins appear. Spices of cinnamon and nutmeg, along with prominent strawberry flavors co-mingled with raspberry and cherry created a delightful and caressing explosion in the mouth. The tannins and high acidity were nearly perfectly balanced with the forward fruit to round out the experience. The finish provided some nuances of minerality, deeply intertwined structure and was long lasting. I have often spoken of Pinot Noir as being feminine like a ballet dancer as opposed to a hearty Cabernet Sauvignon being a heavy weight boxer. This wine provides a solid compromise between the two polar opposites, providing a soft presence yet a noticeable punch. He does make a “lighter version” and that story will follow in a few weeks. This wine was in 100% new oak with one barrel being French and one being Hungarian.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with a seasoned Filet Mignon, seared on the BBQ at 1200 degrees and served medium rare. One of the first times I have tried a Pinot Noir with a Filet Mignon and I was delighted with the “heavier Pinot Noir” both standing up to the charbroiled steak and acidity cutting through the meat. Both were enhanced in this pairing. Served with seasoned and roasted Baby Red and Yukon potato slices and topped with bacon. Accompanied by fresh broccoli and a Cesar salad.
So while by happenstance we met, it is no accident that this wine will go into my annual Best Wines Tasted for 2023!
Sláinte,
Michael
Livermore Valley Vintners Consortium Shows Off Their Creativity
Attended the 2023 Livermore Valley Vintners Collective release on Saturday, June 24th at the Bankhead theater lobby. This was for their 2020 vintages. Each year seven Livermore Valley wineries agree on a format to be followed and each winemaker putting their creative spin on the end product within the guidelines. Six wineries participated in Saturday’s event. The rules this year were five wines were to be chosen and each representing twenty percent with all grapes being from Livermore Valley. The varietal choice was up to each winemaker. The each wine was paired with a specific cheese selected for the event. Two that were especially delicious were Wood Family Vineyards and Rosa Fierro Cellars.
(photo by Michael Kelly)
(photo by Harrison Wood)
Here is description I previously did on this years’ Wood Family Vineyards LVCC submission:
“This is a blend of five varietals each composing 20% of the total featuring: Grenache, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. This wine is a kindred spirit to a typical symphony with four movements. The first addressing the mind, the second targeting the heart, the third a wake call with up tempo music and the fourth/final movement a strong and powerful, stirring and cheerful rendition of the previous movements. So it is with Wood Family Vineyards LVCC Red Blend. It starts off focused on the intellect trying to dissect varying and contrasting flavors of Grenache (bright cherry, ripe fruit, licorice), Cabernet Franc (medium body, herbs, pepper and earthiness) and Cabernet Sauvignon (robust, chewy and leather). The second movement is the heart of the blend, flavors and aromas bursting with flavors of cocoa, and velvety tannins. The third movement is the wakeup call focused on easy to drink Cabernet Franc contrasting to the robust chewy tannins of Cabernet Sauvignon. The final crescendo pulling it all together, is the combination of red fruits, coffee, herbs, blackberry and layers upon layers of opulence and exuberance picking up all the nuances of the various components”.
For the full story on Wood Family Vineyards submission, click here on the link:
Rosa Fierro Cellars comprised of four of my favorite varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Petite Sirah and Barbera, which was a delicious combination and a lovely finish.
Sláinte,
Michael
2017 Granite Heights Winery Cabernet Franc – A Blend of Old World and New World
The Winery and Background
Granite Heights Winery, located in Opal, Virginia, is owned by Luke and Toni Kilyk. They purchased a portion of the land in 1997. Then in 2007 a company wanted to develop the surrounding land, but they were able to get the property. In 2009 the first vines were planted and the winery has grown steadily since then. Today, 12 acres are planted vineyards. As a winery run by the couple, they each have “full time jobs” on top of caring for the vineyard and making wine. Luke is a full time Intellectual Property Law Attorney and Toni is a Family Practice Physician who works for the Fauquier Free Clinic.
One of the keys to their success is that they have been making wine since 2008. Tending the vineyards and making all their wines, provides greater product consistency and knowledge of what the vineyard can produce. Besides being an “absolute winery” they almost have a distain for events and even state they are “not an event center that happens to make wine in addition”. Their typical yearly production is 1,000 to 1,200 cases. The make a variety of red wines including two separate “Bordeaux blends” styles called “humility” & Lomax Reserve; Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Barbera and a Cabernet Sauvignon. Their white wines include Petit Manseng, Chardonnay and a white blend Shadow White (55% Manseng/45% Chardonnay) and even a Rosé.
Photo ©Michael Kelly (not all awards shown)
Granite Heights participated for the first time in the 4th Annual International Wine Competition held in March. Granite Heights Winery made a big splash winning Best of Class and a Gold Medal from the Professional Judges and Best of Class and Gold Medal from the People’s Choice Judges. This was in the Eastern Region Category which included other wineries from Virginia, Michigan and New York. A great showing by Granite Heights Winery!!
The Wine, 2017 Cabernet Franc — “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Generally Virginia Cabernet Francs tend to be “lighter and airier” than those of California or Chile. Virginia is often referred to as a bridge between Old World European wine styles (Chinon) and riper more fruit forward wines in the New World (West Coast). So I was pleasantly surprised when first poured into the glass as the coloring was significantly darker than expected. Most likely due to the 5% Petit Verdot added. Rather than a light purple, it possessed a dark ruby coloring and medium viscosity. On the nose, soft red fruits waft into the senses along with violet aromas. On the palate, a light oak and subtle pyrazines (green pepper notes) were noted, along with Bing cherries and fresh strawberry notes. On the finish, soft and velvety tannins, yet still present and noticeable was the depth of character of this wine. Aged 20 months in French and American oak barrels. Low alcohol at 13.3% makes this a wonderful standalone red wine. Previously the wine won a Gold Medal at the Virginia Governor’s Cup and Double Gold Medal from the American Wine Society and Best Cabernet Franc. It currently is listed on their website at $48.50/bottle. For the 2017 they produced 200 cases.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Granite Heights 2017 Cabernet Franc was chosen this evening as a mellower Cabernet Franc to engage with a spicy meal. The entrée was a 24 hour marinated flank steak prepared as Carne Asada. The ingredients included, fresh chopped Serrano peppers (3 with seeds) rather than Jalapeño peppers , olive oil, soy sauce, fresh squeezed orange and lime juice, minced garlic cloves, ground cumin, Kosher salt and ground black pepper. The steak was seared on the BBQ with an infrared ceramic burner at around 1200 degrees for about 3-4 minutes a side along with Serranto peppers roasting on top of the steak. Topped off with fresh minced cilantro, fresh marinade sauce and a modicum of fresh squeezed lime juice. Accompanying the meal were spiced roasted halved Brussel sprouts and drizzled with reduced Balsamic vinegar, Spanish rice and a fresh garden salad. The Carne Asada was flavorful and spicy with a little more punch than using Jalapeño peppers. The softer Granite Heights Cabernet Franc was welcomed to calm down the spicy food. While the wine pairing was good, we didn’t give the wine its full due, so we left some for later and it was an outstanding sipping wine.
Sláinte,
Michael
Selin Cellars 2020 Cabernet Franc – Best of Show and Best of Class at 2023 International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition
The Winery and Background
Pete Selin, owner and winemaker of Selin Cellars, had spent many years appreciating and tasting wines from various regions. After retiring from high tech in Silicon Valley he moved to Sonoma Valley. He felt right at home in Sonoma with the boutique, hands-on style of the wines. A solid friendship developed with Chris Taddei of Taddei Family Wines and today they consider themselves “brothers”. Chris and Pete work together in making wines for both wineries and share a tasting room at 7726 Bell Road in Windsor, California. It is here that Pete and Chris also produce their wines. Selin Cellars was established in 2019. Today Selin Cellars the produces about 400 cases annually, Pete will cap out his production at no more than 1,000 cases in the future.
Pete sources his grapes from the following hand selected vineyards:
Cabernet Franc – Burnett Vineyards, Barrie Vineyard, Chalk Hill
Puccini Ranch – Alicante Bouschet, Petite Syrah, Zinfandel
Jenks Vineyard – Chardonnay (along the Russian River)
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine produced by Pete and Chris was entered for the first time in the 4th Annual International Wine Competition held in March. Selin Cellars made a big splash winning Best of Class and a Gold Medal from the Professional Judges and Best of Class and Double Gold from the People’s Choice Judges. This was in the $51 to $75 Category which included lots of seasoned wineries. A great showing!!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
First when pouring the wine into the glass, I was caught off guard as to the depth and dark coloring of this Cabernet Franc. It also possessed a very heavy viscosity. That was just the beginning! On nose, a soft violet fragrance and dark fruit waft upward into the olfactory senses. On the palate a delightful and surprisingly far reaching range of bold blackberry, almost jammy but not sweet, coupled with new soft leather and mild pipe tobacco greeted and coated the mouth. Absent was the pyrazine characteristic often found in Cabernet Franc wine. Another surprise then hit you and it was the tannins and acidity coating the mouth from tooth to tooth to the roof of the mouth. Not typical of a Cabernet Franc to have such griping tannins, but not offensive as they were kept in check with the beautiful caressing fruit. The finish was extremely long lasting with a minerality/earthiness beckoning yet another sip. This Cabernet Franc, showed its pedigree with Cabernet Sauvignon right from the start.
The wine is aged 18 months in a combination of 100% new French and Hungarian barrels. He still has a limited amount of the 2020 from Fountain Grove area and his 2021 from Chalk Hill will be released mid-summer 2023 for the same price of $65/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this wine to be paired with a seared BBQ’ed ribeye steak. Seasoned and served medium rare and accompanied by quartered roasted Yukon potatoes. Not only was this pairing spectacular in being matched, it was a great Father’s Day meal! The wine with enough tannins and acidity, made the steak melt in your mouth.
Looking forward to tasting some of his other varietals in the near future. If they come from the same care and nurturing as the Cabernet Franc, they will no doubt be winners also!
Sláinte,
Michael
J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines, 2017 St. E Cuvée – A Beautiful Blend
The Winery and Background
50 years ago Jerry Lohr set out to find all the elements of a great “terroir”, climate, soil and location. He found two regions, one in Monterey County, specifically the Arroyo Seco area. The other being Paso Robles. The cool climate and the development of the vineyards were paramount. Today, J. Lohr has more 1,400 acres of vineyards. His “go to wines” are Chardonnay, Riesling, Valdiguié and Pinot Noir. Additionally they have since added 30 plus acres in Napa Valley. The winery now offers seven tiers of award winning wines.
On a personal note, in my mid-twenties, I cut my teeth on J. Lohr Chardonnay as my wine of choice for social occasions. I mistakenly long ago, abandoned J. Lohr until last December 2022. At a dinner party at a residence in Paso Robles, I was sitting across the table from a most knowledgeable and gracious man, Steve Peck. As we struck up a conversation I found out he was the VP of Winemaking for J. Lohr for both the Paso Robles and San Jose operations. He quietly pointed out while J. Lohr is a commercial winery, they do have many brands highlighting artisan varietals and small boutique production lots.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
He was kind enough to enter into the 4th Annual International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition in March 2023, in the Blend Flight (must be min of 50% Cab Franc). His 2017 Cuvée St E Blend with 63% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot and 1% Malbec won a Gold Medal, Best of Class and Best of Show from the Professional Judges. This was a solid win against some very reputable wineries.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
When opening the wine the coloring was enticing with purple and red hues with a medium viscosity. On the nose, aromas of ripe blackberry waft into the senses. On the palate, the wine shouted out a light and mellow pipe tobacco, with mocha and dark fruit compote. The finish was epic with vanilla, not sweet, just pronounced, followed with defined chewy tannins that drifted to the edges of the mouth and then calmly disappeared with a mid-length residual flavoring that preceded. Almost zero pyrazines (green bell peppers), just silky smoothness. Fermented in French oak and then aged about 20 months in the bottle. The current release is the 2018 and is listed at $50.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with a favorite summertime taco salad comprised of flavored beef, diced Jalapeños’, quartered cherry tomatoes, black beans, lettuce, minced purple onions and a few slices of avocados. A dollop of smoky salsa topped the salad along with tortilla chips and sliced Jalapeño’s along the plate edge. Perhaps not the best pairing with such a “warm meal”, so we held off drinking the wine with the dinner. After some time, we picked up the wine and could embrace the fullness of its character. This wine definitely made the list of my Top Wines Tasted in 2023. The annual report comes out in December after tasting some 1600-1800 wines each year!
So don’t make the same mistake to abandon and discount J. Lohr as a “large production house” as they have a variety of wines and price points for everyone to enjoy. A personal thanks to Steve Peck and I am late in doing a story on their Saint Macaire wine, but it is coming! Now I can’t wait to taste their Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon now that I am returned to J. Lohr family.
Sláinte,
Michael
Wednesday Miscellaneous Wines
An eclectic lineup of various wines enjoyed over the last few weeks! Due to time constraints, no story on them but all excellent wines and worthy of your attention. How many have you tasted?
Photo ©Michael Kelly
First up 2019 King Mountain Vineyard Bacchus Pinot Noir – Earthy, rugged, dark and enjoyable. From Santa Cruz Mountains, Calif. Recent Double Gold Winner! $65/bottle. https://www.kingsmountainvineyards.com/
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2019 Wood Family Vineyards “The Captain” a Bordeaux style blend – smooth and distinct blend of Bordeaux varietals. From Livermore Valley. The 2020 rated 94 pts from Wine Enthusiast and was Editor’s Choice. Current vintage is $44/bottle https://woodfamilyvineyards.com/
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2020 Aridus Graciano – blueberries, violets, sweet spices and mineral notes. Estate fruit from Willcox, Arizona. The current release 2022 made Drexel Top 50 Wines of 2022 $48/bottle. https://www.ariduswineco.com/
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2021 Boundary Breaks Vineyard Cabernet Franc – light, airy, cherry, no pyrazines (green bell pepper) a more refined delicate take from Fingers Lake, NY. $22.95/bottle. https://boundarybreaks.com/
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2013 Sherwin Family Vineyards Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – dark, rich, structured, smooth tannins and held in the cellar for over seven years! From Spring Mountain AVA in Napa Valley. Can find today for $144/bottle. https://sherwinfamilyvineyards.com/
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2018 McKenzie-Mueller Vineyards and Winery, Cabernet Franc – a solid Cab Franc with all the characteristics. Won Double Gold at 4th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition from the Professional Judges. $45/bottle. https://www.mckenziemueller.com/
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2011 Beaulieu Vineyard “Georges De Latour” Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – oaky, cherry and excellent representative of Napa Valley classical Cabernet Sauvignon heritage. Can be found for $148/bottle. https://www.bvwines.com/
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2013 Jessie’s Grove “Royal Tee” Ancient Vine Zinfandel. Tobacco, earthiness and leather with a beautiful finish. $50/bottle. https://www.jessiesgrovewinery.com/
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2019 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – a great everyday drinking Cabernet Sauvignon with black cherry, blackberry, plum and oak with sufficient tannins to please anyone! From St. Helena AVA. $55/bottle. https://www.louismartini.com/
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2018 Boyle McDonald Merlot – a great “heavy body” yet with rounded and present tannins and lengthy finish. $34/bottle. From Sierra foothills and wine tasting room is in Murphys. https://www.boylemacdonaldwines.com/
Enjoy these wines!!
Sláinte,
Michael