Trimbach
2021 Trimbach Pinot Blanc – Versatile and Often Overlooked Varietal
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
Being out of town this week with temperatures in the triple digit teens, white wine was definitely high on the priority list. Picked up a bottle 2021 Trimbach Pinot Blanc to go with a dinner (more below).
History of Pinot Blanc
What is Pinot Blanc? The history of this grape is a bit tangled with mystery and misunderstanding. This white wine grape is essentially a mutation but sharing mostly the same DNA with Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. Pinot Blanc has wide ranging descriptors: high in acidity, low in acidity, mix of fresh fruits, aromas (apple, citrus), pear, a little buttery, a bit creamy, hint of spiciness, dry, floral characteristics, honey, sweet, possessing stone fruit aromas, heavier minerality, cabbage odor, etc.
Map from Wikimedia Commons
Alsace fronts the Rhine River in eastern France, and borders the countries of Germany and Switzerland.
Where is it grown? The main areas for this variety are Alsace (northeast France), the Alto Adige region in Italy and neighboring areas of Alsace in Germany & Austria. Pinot Blanc is also taking a hold in Canada’s Okanagan Valley as one of their signature wines. Other areas include Hungary, Croatia, Spain, Washington, California and Oregon. In France it is permissible to blend this varietal with other grapes in some quantities.
What other names does this grape go by? Warning: the list is a minefield for possible mispronunciations: Austria (Weissburgunder or Klevner), Hungary (Feher Burgundi); Spain & Italy (Pinot Bianco), Czech Republic (Rulandske Bile), Slovakia (Rulandske Biele) and Argentina. In the Champagne region, Pinot Blanc is often called Blanc Vrai. In the United States, besides Pinot Blanc, it is often referred to as a white ABC (anything but Chardonnay) or a stepchild to Chardonnay. The truth of this varietal is very different!
The number of acres planted of Pinot Blanc are a bit of a mystery but estimated around 300 to 400 acres statewide in California. Upon previously tasting various Pinot Blanc’s, I was more than impressed with the aromas, flavors, textures and tastes of this varietal. What stood out was this wine was significantly different from France to California. Admittedly, I have not tasted this varietal in all the previous countries mentioned earlier. In France Pinot Blanc can actually add Auxerrois (from the town in Chablis region) but still labeled as Pinot Blanc. Auxerrois often has a “green vegetable quality” to it. When I first tasted it, I was so “un-impressed” by the taste. Turns out it often has a cabbage tinge. What are the differences between California and French Pinot Blanc? Apart from “terroir”, as mentioned the French often blend in Auxerrois and it has a distinct “green vegetable” on the palate. The Trimbach Pinot Blanc did not have this “cabbage tinge” and was a delicious wine.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine was a delightful surprise from the prestigious winery Trimbach since 1626. First on the eyes, a light golden color with aromas of green apple with a skosh of soft citrus. On the palate while “light in color” it packed a remarkably crisp and refreshing punch. Typically this wine with its high acidity is perfectly matched with shellfish, fried calamari and also buttery sauces (see below on food pairing). A great alternative from your everyday Chardonnay. This wine had no “cabbage” or green vegetable influence just caressing floral notes and aromas.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with a Swiss cheese chicken recipe. Pieces of chicken breasts cut in half, layered with Swiss cheese, cream of chicken soup, white wine, crumbled croutons, and topped with melted butter then baked for an hour. Accompanied by rice pilaf and steamed broccoli with white mushrooms. The buttery aspect of the meal was wonderfully aligned with this wine. A very good food and wine pairing.
While I am a big supporter of Chardonnay wines, I like mixing it up a little once in a while to discover new aspects of white wine. So it was with Trimbach Pinot Blanc.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly