Calaveras Wines
2020 Moody Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon – As Rare As Gold!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
While having just moved from California to Arizona with 191 boxes to unpack and some additional 50+ items, we finally found our dishes, pots, pans and wine glasses. We still had not moved any wine from the temperature-controlled wine lockers in Scottsdale to the home. However, the day before we drove to Arizona, attended the Calaveras Foothill Wine Competition, which I have been judging at for the last eight years. At the kickoff dinner held at Hatcher Winery, randomly sat next to Bob Moody, owner and winemaker at Moody Ridge Wine.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Talked all evening on a variety of wine and other subjects this evening and upon departing the dinner, he handed me his bottle of wine. We “brought with us” and felt it only appropriate to open it on our first home cooked meal at our new home. On this day we had our new Napolean BBQ assembled and hooked up to the natural gas line at the house. We were now set to enjoy meals at home!
The Winery – Moody Ridge Wine
Located in Murphys, California in the lower Sierra foothills, this is a family-owned vineyard that was started after the devasting “Old Gulch Fire” in 1992. In 1980 the Moodys settled into their home which took Bob three and a half years of weekends to build. During the evening of the kick-off dinner, Bob reminisce about losing their family home in 1992.
Photo from Moody Ridge Wine
With help from his neighbors and friends, they rebuilt the homestead in four months. What a contrast to how much time and red-tape permitting is required today after the devasting fires in Altadena, Pacific Palisades, Paradise, etc., in California recently. That was one of the topics of discussion during our dinner at Hatcher Winery.
Photo from Moody Ridge Wine
After rebuilding and farming the charred land covered with 18 inches of ash, they started with 300 vines which has now grown to 1600 vines that produced over 10 tons of fruit a year. This began the origins of Old Gulch Vineyard.
Photo from Moody Ridge Wine
Bob cannot technically call their wines “organic ”nor does he want to go through the certification process, but he stands by the minimal use of chemicals and pesticides. He even uses lambs to keep the weeds out of the vineyard.
Attending the dinner this year was his first time, and he did not even enter his wine into the competition but was there supporting the Calaveras Winegrape Alliance and friends.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Bob and other wine makers brought wine to the kickoff dinner for the competition held at Hatcher Winery. He brought an open bottle back to the table for us to taste. I was impressed by the first sip.
The wine, besides tasting great, the story of literally rising from the burning ashes, was a fairy tale of hard work and determination. Truly a Phoenix story. The respect and admiration of his effort made one appreciate the wine even more.
First on the eyes a very deep ruby red coloring and medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose, soft fragrances of blueberries and mocha arise from the cup. On the palate, a refreshingly mellow and subdued Cabernet Sauvignon yet with fruit dancing merrily in the mouth. At the long-lasting finish, tannins arose that were firm and gripping but not as intense as some of the heavier Napa Cabernet Sauvignon brethren. A very solid wine that was extremely enjoyable. This wine came in at 14.2% alcohol. Additionally, he only uses French oak and typically ages it for two years.
So now some “oddities” about this winery. First Bob and his wife really enjoy Cabernet Sauvignon, so he simply only makes this varietal. Secondly, and a fact that simply eludes common understanding in the wine world, he sells his wines for around $10-12 dollars a bottle! This is not a typo! He has been making wine for 31 years and is currently about to release his 2022 vintage. When that happens, I will be the first in line!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
For our first meal at our new home, we searched out and found a local meat market/butcher who obtains his beef from corn fed cows in Nebraska. Since we just had the BBQ set up by Gilbert Fireplaces and BBQ’s, this was the optimal way to kick off the dinner. The filet mignon steaks were seared at 1500 degrees and served medium rare the way we both enjoy the meat. This was actually more of a fluke as we still had not found the meat temperature probe!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Accompanied by fresh sweet corn lightly BBQ’ed on the grill and a fresh garden salad. A great meal with a most heartfelt and tasty Cabernet Sauvignon. While still eating on a folding table with folding chairs (dinning room furniture is on backorder) we finally got our home cooked meal. Knowing the background on Bob’s story, made the meal even more enjoyable being thankful for a home!
I hope you, the readers, get an opportunity to taste and buy his Cabernet Sauvignon as it is a gem found in Calaveras County foothills as is as rare as gold at $10-12/bottle. The only thing more rare than gold is Bob himself!
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2021 Mineral Wines Syrah and a Winery Moving to Idaho!
Background
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I have written several stories about Brett Keller, owner and winemaker of Mineral Wines and his delicious and award-winning wines when he was in Murphys, California. He has been relocating his winery and operation to Eagle, Idaho for the last couple of years. He is about to break ground shortly on his new facility and is very excited to continue to serve established customers who follow his wines in Calaveras County and beyond and introduce new customers in Idaho.
More recently Brett and family moved to Eagle, Idaho. There he is busy setting up his new winery location, still being called Mineral Wines. He has established himself with local folks assisting in yearly crushes. While still having some varieties of grapes from the Sierra foothills, he has begun making Idaho based wines, specifically Malbec and Syrah. In 2022 he made a Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Meritage blend all from the Snake River Valley. The most recent vintage is his 2023 Syrah and a Merlot from a local vineyard just outside of Eagle, Idaho. On their 10-acre estate in Eagle, they have completed their plans for the winery and are currently heading to permit it to start construction in early Spring.
In a conversation with Brett one very interesting fact is that Idaho was declared the leading wine consuming state in the US by per capita by VinePair (https://vinepair.com/articles/map-states-drink-wine-america-2020/)
Photo from Mineral Wines website
When they open their doors, Mineral Wines will hit the road at full speed with over 30 Gold and Double Medals to win the hearts and palates of those in Eagle Foothills AVA on the edge of Treasure Valley in Idaho.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I had previously written a story on his 2018 Syrah, and this vintage only tastes better. Brett makes his Syrah in the French style as he states, “great complexity, structure and complex cherry and lavender aromas followed by rich berry flavors”. The grapes come from their winery in Angels Camp.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
First on the eyes, a deep and robust color and medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose, berries, leather and spices are the predominate aromas that waft into your senses. But on the palate robust, dense and lively blackberry and blueberry flavors engulf the mouth. It concludes with a velvety texture and very subtle tannins caress the back of the mouth to provide a long-lasting enjoyable tasting.
The current release of 2021 Mineral Wines Syrah, along with other varieties and vintages, can be viewed at www.mineralwines.com and are available by calling Brett directly at 209-743-4100 or ordering online.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine was pulled to taste with a Korean beef recipe this evening. A Syrah was chosen to complement the meat/recipe with Syrah having bold and robust dark fruit notes of blackberries and plum. Syrah generally stands up to chuck roast, green onions and soy sauce.
This new recipe for us called for the following ingredients for tonight’s dinner: trimmed chuck roast cut into cubes, cornstarch, garlic powder, onion powder, sesame oil, minced garlic, scallions, cloves of garlic, applesauce, rice vinegar, low sodium soy sauce, gochujang sauce (Korean BBQ sauce) and a modicum of sugar. The dish was garnished with white sesame seeds when served. Accompanied with long and short grain wild rice and sauteed asparagus with mushrooms with garlic. A fresh garden salad with halved cherry tomatoes, bacon, green onions and pepitas also served.
The food and wine pairing was very good with Syrah being a perfect companion to the meal. One note is that next time, the apple sauce would either be halved or not added.
The winery update from Brett:
Photo from Mineral Wines website
Wine grapes have been grown in the Boise area for over 50 years. Most grapes grown in Idaho are in the Snake River Valley. We are now sourcing grapes from the Eagle Foothills.
In 2020, our family purchased a ten-acre parcel in the hills above Boise, in the Eagle Foothills American Viticultural Area. We began making Idaho wines in 2021, with Syrah and Malbec. In 2022, we began making Cabernet Sauvignon, Meritage, Tempranillo, and Petit Verdot. We also made our favorite California wines that year.
We will become the 10th winery within a half-hour drive of nearly 700,000 residents. Wineries here in Idaho are increasing in size and number, and we look forward to contributing to the grape and wine culture.
We are not quite up and running yet. We are thinking, perhaps this summer. Currently, we are in the environmental stage of our wastewater designs, after those are done, we start building.
We make no less than a dozen different varieties, all small production between 40 and 150 cases of each. You will hear him say “I did not spend six years in college to only master a few wines… I worked to master EVERY wine I could make!”
Brett’s style of winemaking focuses on two things: First, EVERY wine must taste as the variety should. Therefore, each wine has to be made in a way that the varietal character speaks loudly. Barbera should NOT taste like Zinfandel. This means that every wine must be made individually. Yeasts, barrels and different vineyards are selected for each variety according to what it will do for the characters of the wine. Many vintners just do not understand that to give wines their individual identity you cannot make them the same way with the same barrels, yeasts, and cellar treatment.
We wish Brett and his family continued success with new vintages going forward.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
Gossamer Cellars in Murphys, California – A Recent Visit
Photo from Gossamer Cellar
If you have followed my writings and wine reviews, Gossamer Cellars 419 Main Street in Murphys in the lower foothills has been on my radar for almost ten years. Unique to Gossamer cellars is Gary and Sue Grant, owners with Gary being the winemaker and Sue as the welcoming host in the tasting room. One of the endearing qualities of Gossamer Cellars is Gary’s stride to create all the wines on DeLong’s Wine Grape Varietal Table that resides in the tasting room.
Photo from Gossamer Cellar
This obviously is a monumental task, and Gary continues to find new vineyards and produce new wine yearly. He does produce some stalwart wines year to year, but as a “creative and talented scientist/winemaker” he continues to dabble with many less common grape varieties.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I recently stopped by the tasting room and spoke with Sue in person and Gary via phone as he was at the winery in San Andreas. Got to taste a few of his new creations and was very impressed with two of them. The first being his 2024 Treixadura white wine from vineyards in the Sierra foothills. Primarily grown in the Vinho Verde region of Portugal and Rias Baixas region in Spain. This wine is noted for its body, citrus and floral notes with acidity that needs to be kept in check. Gary hits the mark on this light, airy and refreshing wine. It is destined to be a great and enjoyable wine with various fish dishes or simply by itself as a warm evening porch pounder.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The second wine of notable quality was his 2021 “Reed” Charbono from Alta Mesa AVA in the Sacramento region. Charbono is originally from the alpine vineyards of Savoie in eastern France and name was initially known as Bonarda. Its key characteristics are black cherry, plum and spices often with blueberries with soft tannins. Sipping on a pour of this wine, it was love at first sip! Smooth elegance with spice and dry with a lingering finish. This wine again could be a standalone drinker or paired with a wide variety of foods. You might call this wine produced by Gossamer Cellars as a welcoming mat to red wines in their lineup!
Closing, I have often quoted a saying in their boutique tasting room that reads “Adventure may hurt you, but monotony will kill you”. Gary and Sue will never be bored with his quest for new and delicious wines.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2020 Lavender Ridge Vineyard Syrah and Mongolian Beef
The Winery
Picture from Lavender Ridge Vineyard Facebook
Lavender Ridge Vineyard tasting room is in the town of Murphys in the lower Sierra Nevada foothills. Lavender Ridge specializes in Rhone varietal wines. They include Cotes du Calaveras Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne, Rolle, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Rose, Grenache, Cotes du Calaveras, Mourvedre, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet, Vin Doux and Anniversaire Blanc. They also feature an artisan cheese selection that is unique and has something for just about everyone.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
To read more about Lavender Ridge, see three previous articles:
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I purchased this wine two years ago and laid it down in the cellar. Knowing the meal, I thought this would go well with it. Sierra foothills Syrah tend to be intense with bold flavors from granite-based soils and a warm climate. This met and exceeded those expectations with dark fruits of blackberry, plum and spicy notes of pepper and clove. Earthy notes of smoke and minerality were exceptional. On the nose, floral violet aromas and the finish being full-bodied and soft caressing tannins.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with another wintertime comfort food, Mongolian Beef. A delicious recipe taking flank steak, canola oil, dry sherry wine, soy sauce, cornstarch, water, baking soda, brown sugar, ginger, garlic, scallions and Flatiron Pepper Company’s Dark & Smoky peppers. They included Chipotle, Ancho and Habanero peppers. This provided a tasty sweet and spicy dish. Accompanied by brown rice.
This recipe is now both of our favorite with the texture and flavors.
The wine was perfectly suited for the meal with its dryness and fruit providing a beautiful backdrop to each morsel.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com