2019 Smith-Madrone Vineyards Riesling – Tremendous Minerality and Dry
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker, and the associate winemaker is François Bugué. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Currently their production is approximately 6,000 cases a year. They produce Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) and a recently released Cabernet Franc.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A quick background on Riesling. It is the 20th most grown variety and in “terms of importance for quality wines, it is usually included in the top three white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc planted worldwide” per Wikipedia. Riesling is adaptable to growing in both warm and cool climates with the flavors varying per temperature respectively of citrus and peach notes for warm, apple and tree fruit for cooler temperature regions.
In the final California Dept of Food & Agriculture Grape Crush white wine grape harvest in 2024 was 1,417,993 tons. Riesling was only 29,341 tons accounting for only 2% of the grapes crushed!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2019 Riesling is extremely aromatic with floral notes and green apples on the nose. A more golden yellow color than the previous vintage with medium viscosity. On the palate, hints of lemon zest, mixed with stone fruits (white peach and apricots) tame the lime citrus. A modicum of beeswax makes it extremely mouth filling. On the finish, the minerality comes through strong and pure from either the volcanic soil, or sandstone, limestone or the general rocky soil found on the property. The minerality and acidity are jovial and enticing with a semi-sweet crescendo. Very low residual sugar (.7%) and coming in at 13.3% alcohol, Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced 1,087 cases. The current release is their 2019 and listed on their website for $40/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired with three dishes of Chinese food: honey walnut prawns, combination fried rice and lemon chicken. The prawns and chicken had a sweet character and the Riesling being dry provided a beautiful contrast for this meal.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2018 Smith-Madrone Riesling had made the Best Wines tasted in 2023 and the 2019 made my Best Wines tasted in 2024 and again will in 2025. We stock this wine specifically for certain food and wine pairings.
Sláinte,
Michael