2020 Ehret Family Vineyards Merlot -Turning Miles (from the movie Sideways) Upside Down
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
It has been almost a year since I tasted this exquisite wine and my critique of it has only intensified. Miles, the character played by Paul Giamatti, caused extraordinary damage to the Merlot wine market in the 2004 movie Sideways with his irrational distain of Merlot. While not the theme of the movie, Miles outright hatred of Merlot was a sub-theme while he and his friend were struggling to cope with their addictions, middle age and breaking out of their ordinary lives. The impact of the movie resulted in Merlot, which had been 20% of California production dropping to 13%. Consequently, it gave an unprecedented rise to Pinot Noir. By 2017, Pinot Noir production surpassed Merlot for the first time and hasn’t fallen behind since.
Photo cover of their book
More economic impact on the wine industry and details can be found in an article by Steven S. Cuellar, PhD from Sonoma State University’s Economic Dept.: https://winebusinessanalytics.com/sections/printout_article.cfm?content=61265&article=feature . Also a recent book was published called “Sideway Uncorked” by Kirk Honeycutt & Mira Advani Honeycutt which is a great read on this cultural changing movie phenomenon.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
One of the key lines in the movie Sideways was from Miles stating “No, if anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any #*&%-ing Merlot!” If Miles had tasted this wine, he would be a changed man! This wine on the eyes was dark, brooding color and enticing, not a “plain Jane” Merlot coloring. Lush purple and lively on the eyes with medium heavy viscosity. On the nose ripe plums and red cherries wafted into the olfactory senses. Once on the palate, a combination of the juicy plum but not sweet enliven and dance in the mouth. Also, a beeswax coating surrounding the palate. The finish gives a hint of vanilla and concludes with noticeable tannins in the back of the mouth and a chewiness note often found with Merlot. This is one strong Merlot to be reckoned with and with layers of enjoyment. This is one of four Merlot’s that I consider noteworthy to be in the cellar and aged.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine is 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. The current vintage is 2021 and is listed at $69/bottle. This wine tonight made my annual Best Wines Tasted in the year 2025. This is one of only a handful of Merlot’s that are robust, bold and targeted for Cabernet Sauvignon drinkers!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
This wine was chosen to go with tonight’s dinner of a tenderized and 24 hour marinaded tri tip steak. It was marinated in Chaka sauce, seared on the BBQ at 1500 on each side for 3 minutes to capture the juices. Then BBQ’ed at medium heat to a medium rare level. Accompanied by a Russet potato and fresh garden salad of iceberg lettuce, pepitas, freshly cooked bacon pieces and green onions. Only a hand full of Merlot wines could handle and pair as comfortably with this steak as did Ehret’s Merlot. The meal provided a varied range and intensity of flavors with both the dinner and wine in concert.
The Winery
Photo from Ehret Family
The Ehret Family Winery owners are Pierre and Susan Ehret with their three children Alex, Christian and Isabella. They established the vineyard and started producing grapes in 1996 at the Bavarian Lion Vineyards. It is one of the largest estates in Knights Valley consisting of 1800 acres of both hillside and valley floor terrain. Currently 500 acres are planted in vineyards allowing the balance to provide an ecosystem for plants and birdlife to dwell. From 1996 they sold their fruit to some of the more well-known wineries throughout Napa and Sonoma counties. In 2005, they selected the highest quality grapes and started their family brand, Ehret Family Winery. Today they produce various Cabernet Sauvignon’s, Red Blends, Zinfandel, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc wines. Their tasting room is located in Healdsburg at 422 Healdsburg Ave and appointments are required.
Map courtesy from Vintroux https://vineyardandwinerysales.com/
Knights Valley is located in Northern Sonoma County between Alexander Valley and over the Napa Valley border next to Calistoga.
Sláinte,
Michael