Small Vines Wines – Unique Winery and Dedicated Vineyard Management Care
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
I met with Paul and Kathryn Sloan, owners of Small Vines Winery recently to better understand and appreciate their vineyards and philosophy behind the label. They undertook a project no less than a goal in their quest to make vineyards similar to those in Burgundy. Their goal was to reinvigorate and make their viticulture estate mirror the best European vineyards. Believing growing only small vines is the key to create as Paul states “meaningful wine of authenticity, balance and structure”. This is his thoughts on what makes the greatest Pinot Noir’s and Chardonnay’s in France by starting in vineyards. The Sloan family has a mantra “the smaller the vine, the better the wine”.
This obviously goes against almost all the large wineries and giant corporate winemaking principles garnering higher tons per acre. Paul prefers achieving smaller yields or less fruit per vine, from higher density plantings. For example here is a typical California Chardonnay vineyard with 8 x 5 (8 feet between the rows and 5 feet between vines) versus the second photo of Small Vines Winery 4 x 3 rows.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Photo ©Michael Kelly
With the rows being so narrow, farming equipment was purchased in France and shipped over to achieve their vineyard goal. Below is a picture from Small Vines Winery during harvest.
Photo from Small Vines Winery website
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Their first release in 2005 immediately sold out and received excellent scores and accolades. They bought the estate property in 2007 and planted 12.5 acres in 2009 with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir plantings. The estate is on a hilltop in the Russian River Valley close enough to receive the cooling winds and fog from the Pacific, yet hot enough during the day to allow development. With these factors, it is as Paul states a “perfect location for crisp age worthy acidity and brightness and for richness and tannins”.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paul prefers to use natural yeast and acid to create vibrancy and ageability in their wines. Harvest time requires all sorting being done twice for quality assurance. They often use whole cluster during fermentation to extract a given flavor profile with natural tannins from the stems. Just one of the unique aspects of Small Vines is that all French barrels staves are aged 3 years before seeing their fruit so as not to impart too harsh an impact on their gorgeous fruit. Their Pinot Noir is aged 14 months in the barrels on lees. Both the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are bottled unfined and unfiltered.
The Wines – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Their TBH Chardonnay name comes from The Barlow Homestead where the winery sits today. The actual winery is a solid fortress where apples were stored. Their Chardonnay uses a combination of new and neutral French barrels and the Chardonnay’s tasted were the 2020 Small Vines Sonoma Coast and the 2018 TBH Chardonnay.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
In total 5 wines were tasted with the Sloan’s. The Pinot Noir wines tasted were the 2021 Estate Cuvee, the 2020 TBH and the 2019 Baranoff Vineyard.
Below Paul showing his pristine Chardonnay vines with no overlapping in the vineyard.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Each wine tasted was unique in the aromas, mouth feel, taste and finish. I truly was impressed initially and even more so once reviewing my notes on the precise care Paul takes in the vineyard to bring his European expression of each grape cluster and vine to make his wine. I left the tasting purchasing a few bottles for future enjoyment with food.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine selected for dinner was the 2019 Small Vines Pinot Noir from the Baranoff Vineyards located in the Russian River Valley. Only 140 cases were produced and sells for $100/bottle. This wine comes in at 12.9% alcohol.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A semi-transparent brick red on the eyes. On the nose initially on the pour, strong aromas burst into the senses of black cherry. On the palate with the first sip, blackberry, strawberry fruits swirl about in the mouth. Intense flavors hit the front of the tongue and noticeable tannins on the upper teeth. On the finish bright acidity abounds and is surrounded by flavors of rhubarb and cranberry. It is then counterbalanced with a hint vanilla. A very dry Pinot Noir with the wine showing strong minerality.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine was specifically selected for tonight’s dinner to go with a dry rubbed BBQ’ed pork tenderloin. This was a slightly different recipe than a previous one. The dry rub included chili powder, brown sugar, dried oregano, paprika, onion powder, garlic powder, Italian seasoning, fine sea salt, pepper and a little extra virgin olive oil. The slices of pork tenderloin each provided ample flavors to assimilate this refreshing and exquisite wine without overpowering it. It was then drizzled with a Cherry Pepper sauce. The meal was accompanied by roasted potatoes, sautéed asparagus and sliced Cremini mushrooms and a fresh garden salad.
Sláinte,
Michael