Saint Macaire Wine – The 7th Bordeaux Varietal
Brief History and Background
Today the Bordeaux varieties of grapes are known as these five: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. But going back a bit in history, there were actually eight!! The other three are Carménère, Saint Macaire and Gross Verdot. For the story on Carménère and its history and resurgence you can read a couple of articles:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2022/10/22/cuda-ridge-wines-2019-carmenere/ and
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2020/07/10/koyle-royale-carmenere-a-great-history/
So up to 1875, Bordeaux wines used all previous mentioned five varietals and Carménère. These wines were sought after worldwide and known for their quality, desirability and often were considered some of the most expensive wines. Then from the years 1875 to 1892, the large Phylloxera infestation hit France. Phylloxera is the dreaded insect of vineyards who consume and devastate vineyards worldwide. France was able to recover by importing American root stock which was growing well in the United States of the five known Bordeaux grapes today. The three others, Carménère (if you read the links, is on a comeback thanks to Chile and now gaining traction in the USA), but Saint Macaire and Gross Verdot has essentially disappeared.
(Picture from https://www.guide-bordeaux-gironde.com/)
Saint Macaire is named after the medieval town of Saint Macaire just south of Bordeaux. When the Phylloxera plague hit, it was gone and so was its use in Bordeaux blends. But why?
Two California Wineries Producing Saint Macaire Today – Hanna Winery and J.Lohr Vineyards & Wines – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
About five years ago, I visited Hanna Winery in Healdsburg, California for a private tasting. I purposed to go there for their Saint Macaire as I had never tasted it. I enjoyed it and purchased three bottles and until last evening had never opened one waiting for just the right occasion! Additionally, I had made a quick friendship with Steve Peck, VP of Winemaking for J.Lohr last December, while discussing various wines and by chance got on the topic of Saint Macaire. We were both a bit startled at each other’s understanding of the rarity of this varietal. I knew that only 1 acre was planted in Northern California, ½ by Hanna Winery and ½ by O’Shaughnessy Winery. Hanna produced a designated Saint Macaire and O’Shaughnessy used a very small percentage in blending, in making their “Bordeaux style” wines. Steve’s quote on Saint Macaire was “I have spent my career chasing the “dense but soft” textural style that we are known for at J. Lohr. The Saint-Macaire variety really showcases that style with its’ incredible color and ostentatiously rich entry to the palate that is somehow followed by a remarkably soft finish”. I still had not opened the wine I had purchased from Hanna but now was more anxious to do so. The next day, Steve provided me a bottle of J.Lohr 2019 Saint Macaire. Thus the impetus for this story.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The “correct occasion” came about last evening with another couple, both wine judges joining us for dinner. So the four of us were able to taste and discuss the wine side by side, with a lovely meal. The wines were each decanted 4 hours before the meal and poured back into the bottle to be served with dinner. So we would be able to discern the wine by itself and able to taste the interaction with food, specifically the beef. First standalone the wines were similar but different, with 2015 Hanna being 77% Saint Macaire, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Malbec and 2% Merlot. It came in a high 16% alcohol level, with 19 months in French oak. They produced only 125 cases and today their current release, 2019 goes for $72/bottle. The Hanna was noticeably a deep and radiant purple in color both in the decanter and glass. Aromas of oak and black cherry were dominate on the senses. On the palate, besides the bright fruit, a definite hint of sliced mushroom and teeth coating tannins were abundant. On the finish, the tannins were even more pronounced on the roof of the mouth along with peppercorns for a spiciness. One key word for both the mouthfeel and finish is “texture”.
The 2019 J.Lohr Saint Macaire is 100% Saint Macaire varietal from Paso Robles with 15.5% alcohol and aged 18 months in 20% new French oak barrels. A small quantity of 172 cases were produced and is currently out of stock but sold for $60/bottle and was rated by Wine Enthusiast at 93 points. This varietal again possessed a unique shade of deep purple on the eyes. On the nose, aromas blackberry with a minerality wafted quickly into the senses. On the palate, it was full on blackberry and lush black cherry. A slight campfire smokiness came through as a secondary flavor. On the finish, a live intensity followed by again a very textual feeling, but followed was pure silkiness sip upon sip.
The initial standalone tasting reaction was that 3 people preferred the Hanna Saint Macaire over the J.Lohr wine and I thinking it was dominated by tannins. It should be noted that all four of us enjoy big red robust wines with tannins. Now the test with food.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Dinner consisted of seared marinated tri-tip steak served medium rare with roasted Anaheim peppers. Accompanied by sautéed vegetables consisting of orange peppers, summer squash and onions. Also two beautifully presented salads. The first being a whole wheat pasta salad with tomatoes, peas, green onions and fresh Parmesan cheese. The second salad brought by our guests was a fresh garden salad with homemade Balsamic dressing. J.Lohr Winery notes recommended serving this wine with roasted potatoes, red meats or a charcuterie board of quality cured hams and aged cheeses.
Paired with the meat, the tannins from Hanna were harnessed a bit with the meat and the silky smooth J.Lohr with fruit provide a complementary finished. The group was evenly divided 2 preferring the Hanna and 2 preferring the J.Lohr. Unanimously, we all agreed that both wines were uniquely different and both praiseworthy and a nice take on this varietal.
A special thanks to Steve Peck, VP of Winemaking at J.Lohr and Shelby Lozinto of Hanna Winery. And of course our guest tasters & commentators last evening of Steve and Darlene Besst and our cooking host, Susan Kelly.
Next up is the quest for the eighth varietal of Bordeaux, Gros Verdot. Anyone know where to pick up one?
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
July 6, 2023 at 10:22 pm
Great..
Wonderful artikle