Month: March 2024
The Winerie at Sandusky, 2021 Lemberger Wine
Background on Lemberger Wine
A wine which is not a household name, at least in California! No it is not related to the Limberger cheese! It is known as Blaufränkisch in Austria, Kékfrankos in Hungary and as Frankovka in the Czech Republic and Slovakia.
Lemberger is thought to originate in the Danube River Valley and is widely grown in Central Europe, especially in Austria where it is known as Blaufränkisch. This grape is related to Gamay and Pinot Noir. Lemberger is a late ripening grape best suited to moderate climates. If it is too cool in the summer it will not ripen and display a more vegetal aromas and flavors like green bell pepper. It is a black-skinned gape with production in Austria being 78%, Hungary 7% and Germany 6% totally 91% of the worldwide crop. In the USA only 3% of worldwide production with it growing in New York (Finger Lakes), Ohio (Lake Erie) and Washington (Yakima Valley). Other smaller areas include California, Michigan, Indiana, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island and Colorado.
A common feature of Blaufränkisch or Lemberger is a fruit forward profile with aromas of black cherries and black pepper, coupled with medium tannins and bright acidity. It also yield a large amount per acreage over many grapes.
The Winery
From Vermilion Valley Vineyards Website
Vermilion Valley Vineyards is an estate winery located in the rural landscape of the Vermilion River Watershed in North Central Ohio. They are located at 11005 Gore Orphanage Road, Wakeman, Ohio. Their goal is to produce world-class wines to showcase both the sustainable terrior and skilled wine making.
Co-owner and winemaker Joe Jupiter and I have had many text exchanges on his participation in the Annual International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition. His main concern was the judging of wine based on the regional terroir. Assuring him that we divide up the regions for judging, for example, East Coast (NY, VI); Central USA (MI & Ohio); Northwest (Oregon, Washington), etc. he decided to enter the event this year. Upon his submission he graciously sent a few other wines which I will be reviewing.
Vermilion Valley Vineyards has 100 planted acres in four different locations. With micro climates, this allows all his wines to be 100% estate grown. What is interesting about Ohio is that some 370 wineries exist but only 900 acres of grapes are planted! Doing some simple math, removing the five largest vineyards in the state, you are left with each winery having a one acre parcel! Thus many wineries in Ohio rely on importing juice from various areas like the Central Valley of California and Washington. That is one of many unique characteristics of Vermilion Valley Vineyards their estate wines.
Currently they produce the following red wines: Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Dorsa, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lemberger, Chambourcin, Dornfelder, Nebbiolo, Malbec, Pinotage and Merlot. Ditto for their white wines producing: Muscat Ottonel, Riesling. Gruner Veltliner, Müller-Thurgau, Traminette, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Valvin Muscat, Ribola Gialla, Petit Manseng, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Albariño, Pinot Blanc and Arneis. That is a wide variety of wines and all estate grown!
You can read their webpage about their high level of sustainability incorporating land use and their buildings. Link at the bottom of the page.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This was the first time I had the opportunity to taste Lemberger and I was pleasantly shocked with the taste. Expecting a lighter wine with “little distinction”, it actually produced some interesting notes of flavor. The coloring was almost semi-transparent and light. On the nose a beautiful banquet of black fruit emerged on a “lighter wine coloration” which was the first surprise. The second surprise on the palate was the crispness and very low tannins. Immediately I thought of it being a cross of Merlot and Pinot Noir. The finish of red and black cherries, blackberry and black pepper spices enlivened the imbiber.
In an email exchange with Joe it went on to state that in “cooler years, it leans toward the hearty Pinot Noir into Merlot and in hotter dryer years it’s rich and spicy like Syrah”.
The Sandusky Vineyard has shallow well drained sandy soil over limestone and typically yields 5 tons per acre. Most of the vineyard is machine harvested with only 15% being hand harvested for the purpose of stem inclusion. After pressing, the wine goes straight to neutral barrels to complete primary and secondary fermentations. Once stabilized, about 20% goes into new French oak and the remainder in neutral for 11 months. This vintage goes for $22/bottle and only 300 cases were produced. While always looking for a “food and wine pairing” this wine is simply gorgeous to drink by itself.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
With my wife down with an injury, the meals being cooked are lacking with my culinary skills. That stated, I paired this evening’s meal which was a hand rubbed and BBQ’ed pork tenderloin and served with a Cherry Pepper sauce. Accompanied by a garden salad with chicken, corn, grated cheese and dressing. While I generally like a food flavor profile of polar opposites, this meal was more equal being neutral on the pork (cut down on some of the normal spices) and neutral on the wine, being akin to soft Pinot Noir and a mellow Merlot. Both the meal and wine were great but the wine would have even been better with our normal spicier rub.
Should you get a chance to try a Lemberger variety, take the opportunity to taste it and you will be pleasantly surprised.
Sláinte,
Michael
2018 Gossamer Cellars Nebbiolo – Transports You to Italy!
History of Nebbiolo
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Like a great Nebbiolo from Barbaresco, Gossamer Cellars in Murphys, California has an excellent Nebbiolo. This is 100% Nebbiolo grapes and won Double Gold at the Sierra Foothills Wine Competition in 2023. A quick recap of world class Nebbiolo grapes. They are found in areas in Piedmont, Italy where a small portion of “other grapes” can be added but that is not within the scope of this story. Nebbiolo has been around since the 1200’s, with some controversy as to its origin in Italy. Some state Piedmont was the origin and other’s state further to the east in Italy. The first written comment about Nebbiolo is from 1268 and was from more easterly Italy. Nebbiolo comes from the word nebbia meaning “fog”. Fog forms in the valleys but the vineyards of Piedmont Nebbiolo are in the sunshine above the fog.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Characteristics of Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo is a thick skinned, late harvesting grape. Key flavors and aromas are pronounced roses, cranberry, sour cherries, leather, and strong minerality along with red fruits. Most notable are the mouth puckering and lip smacking tannins. Most Nebbiolo wines are best served many years after their release date to allow the tannins to settle down. In the glass they can appear light colored and translucent around the edges, but do not be fooled that you are about to be greeted by a “light weight wine” as it carries a big punch! The acidity and tannins are almost unmatched in red wines.
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The etymology of the word gossamer originated in Middle English as “goose summer” or “gos mer”, late summer warmth, when the geese where in prime condition to be eaten! Over time it has morphed into an adjective “gossamer” meaning “light, delicate or tenuous” like butterfly wings. Thus on the bottle of Gossamer Cellars a delicate butterfly or fairy is depicted with butterfly wings. To this end, it is appropriately named as Gary Grant “flitters from varietal to varietal” making unique, high quality and lesser known wines for those open to experience the vast world of wine!
Gossamer Cellars located in Murphys, California is one of the gems of the Sierra Foothills. Their “motto” written in chalk in a very tiny tasting room sums up their goal and lifestyle “Adventure may hurt you, but monotony will kill you” (Anonymous). See the complete story at:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2019/01/18/gossamer-cellars-a-unique-find/ .
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I often think of Nebbiolo as a sneak attack wine! It is easy to understand with its light and almost translucent coloring in the glass. On the nose, this lighter colored with delicate rose and violet petal aromas has you falling under its spell. Now lured into a thinking a “Pinot Noir” lays there awaiting a soft sip. Instead this wine punches you in the face with its tight tannins and robust acidity. On the palate, fresh cherry, plum and a hint of strawberry provides a mouth puckering experience. But with the right type of food (almost any with tomatoes), the acidity and tannins are “calmed down”. Herbs with a tinge of anise and leather make the finish complete and decidedly beckoning another sip. Having had many of Gary’s wines, this is one of his two best he has produced to date. I know many more are coming!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
With my wife down with an injury, our friends Bill & Cheryl McCready’s dropped off noodles and a homemade pasta sauce including fresh ground Parmesan cheese. The recipe is from his mother and includes sausage, ground beef, pork, tomatoes, onions and dozens of spices. One of the most delicious red sauces tasted west of Italy. With the fresh fettucine noodles and cheese, what a delicious meal. The wine with its acidity and tannins were perfectly matched for this dish. This meal and wine transported us right back to Piedmont, Italy.
Definitely a wine to make my annual Best Wines of Year tasted for 2024! I don’t publish a list for sauces, but if I did, McCready’s would be there also.
Sláinte,
Michael
2018 Lavender Ridge Vineyard Roussanne with Blackened Swordfish
The Winery
Picture from Lavender Ridge Vineyard Facebook
2018 Lavender Ridge Vineyard tasting room is located in the town of Murphys in the lower Sierra Nevada foothills. Lavender Ridge specializes in Rhone varietal wines. They include Cotes du Calaveras Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne, Rolle, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Rose, Grenache, Cotes du Calaveras, Mourvedre, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet, Vin Doux and Anniversaire Blanc. They also feature an artisan cheese selection that is unique and has something for just about everyone. To read more about Lavender Ridge, see three previous articles:
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Last night’s dinner with the Friday Night Wine & Dine group at Verona18 brought the 2018 Lavender Ridge Roussanne, which was “perfect” for the food and enjoyed by our friends! This Roussanne is powerful with floral aromatics, with hints of peaches, pears and provided a rich and silky smooth mouthful texture. The fullness of body, almost a creamy sense, is the key contributor making this a unique wine! Roussanne brings more acidity, elegance and aromatic complexities to the wine. Lavender Ridge 2016 Roussanne won Double Gold at the 2018 Sierra Foothills Wine Competition. The 2018 release is now a standard fixture in the wine cellar and a nice change up from Chardonnay! Today they are sold out of the 2018, but the new release, 2022 will be released the later this year.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Ordered the Blackened Swordfish special with pineapple-jalapeño chutney and fresh vegetables. The fish was cooked to perfection. The all-encompassing and mouth filling Roussanne, coated and enveloped the blackened spices and chutney with its beautiful flavors. A wonderfully delightful dish and presentation. Dinner came on the heels of the annual Wine Club renewal party held in the Grandview Room with almost sixty wines being presented and offered to be purchased.
We also enjoyed various other wines this evening.
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://lavenderridgevineyard.com
https://www.coppervalleygolf.com/homepage/current-operations
2021 Acquiesce Roussanne – When Great Things Happen to Good People!
The Winery
Picture from Acquiesce Facebook
Acquiesce Winery continues to impress with their white wine portfolio on French varietals. There is so much to state about Susan Tipton, owner and winemaker of Acquiesce Winery. The key takeaway is that she established her winery in Acampo (just north of Lodi) with the expressed purpose of bringing French white wine varieties to market. Lodi had been primarily known for red wines, but she turned heads with some of her unique wines such as Picpoul, Clairette Blanche, Ingénue (blend of Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Bourboulenc & Picpoul Blanc), Roussanne and more. Here are some reviews of her wines and her impact:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2020/09/20/2018-acquiesce-vineyards-picpoul-blanc
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2020/08/30/2018-acquiesce-ingenue-french-and-more-french
Her awards are too numerous to list!! Her appetizer and wine tastings are known throughout the region as being “over the top” with creativity and a delicious treat!
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Her 2020 Roussanne and earlier vintages have made my Best Wines of the Year list. The 2021 Roussanne on the eye is a light-medium golden straw color and medium viscosity. On the nose, it possessed an elegant finesse with extreme floral aromatics, hints of pear, apricots and with a rich and silky smooth mouthful texture almost creamy. The finish had a soft nutty texture of almond and a hint of honey with a distinct minerality with a medium long finish. Roussanne brings more acidity, elegance and floral aromatic complexities to the wine which makes it perfect for chicken, turkey or fish. The current release is the 2022 and winery price is $40.50/bottle. I need to taste the 2022 but hard to believe anything can top the 2021! The 2021 wine will make my Best Wines Tasted in 2024 (published in December 2024) for three years in a row!!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with Norwegian Cod which I had never tasted nor cooked but was highly recommended at Ohana Seafood. It was in for a wonderful surprise on how good this fish tasted tender, moist and flavorful. Definitely a new favorite fish! A little background on Norwegian Cod: Norwegian Atlantic cod is a white fish in the cod-family. This cod thrives in colder waters compared to the other cod-species, like the pacific cod. Cod is perhaps the healthiest and leanest protein you can eat. It is rich in protein, vitamins A, D and B12, selenium, antioxidants and Omega-3s. A portion of cod for dinner covers your daily requirement of Omega-3. More can be found on the Eight benefits of Norwegian Cod at: https://norwegianseafoodcouncil.com/wildfish/cod/eight-reasons-to-buy-norwegian-cod/ .
Pan fried in butter, lemon and virgin oil for 6-7 minutes. The fish was also cooked in a sauce of Sriracha, honey, garlic and ginger. Served with additional sauce drizzled over the top of the cooked fish. Accompanied by yellow sweet corn. One of the best food and wine pairings of the year with the mouth-filling Acquiesce Roussanne with its flavor profile enveloping the “spirited and spicy” fish with calmness and a counter punch of flavor.
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
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