Month: September 2020
2016 Yorkville Cellars Carménère – A Special Treat
Before talking about the wine, here is a quick overview / refresher on the history of Carménère:
History of Carménère
The history of the Carménère varietal is as fascinating as it is happenstance! It was once one of the grapes in the Médoc region of Bordeaux. It served a similar purpose as Petit Verdot does today – producing a deep red ink on wines. It was one of the original six red grapes of Bordeaux. Carménère originates from the French word for crimson (carmin) which refers to the crimson color of the autumn foliage.
When the Phylloxera plague hit in 1867 destroying most of the vineyards in Europe, many thought the Carménère grape was extinct. It wasn’t until 150 years later that when it was discovered that Chile had preserved the Carménère grape thinking it was Merlot (from clippings planted from France). DNA confirmed that it was the missing 6th varietal of Bordeaux.
Carménère Today
Carménère grows mainly in Chile, specifically the Colchagua Valley, Rapel Valley and in the Maipo Province. It is also grown in the Veneto region of Italy, and recently several wineries in Mendocino, Livermore, Lodi, Napa and Calaveras are producing it, albeit in small quantities. Walla Walla also has some root stock growing in Carménère. Here is a picture of Yorkville Cellars Carménère vineyard the third week of October last year.
Uniqueness of Carménère
As a varietal, it has the deep ruby coloring and aromas of red fruits. Tannins are softer and milder than Cabernet Sauvignon, thus its use in blending to soften a strong Cabernet. The use is similar to the use of Merlot . Chile produces a 100% Carménère which has a cherry and fruity flavor but has traces of smoke and earthy notes with the inky coloration.
2016 Yorkville Cellars Carménère
This wine lived up to and exceeded some of the key characteristics of Carménère. On the eyes, a medium viscosity wine with a unique deep purple coloration. On the nose, ripe Bing cherries greeted the senses. The palate is where this wine excelled. First the bright cherry taste was intense and concentrated. Plums and dark fruits then came forth with a hint of soft dry and wet earthen tones with black tea in the background. The earthen notes are generally found in Chilean Carménère but not found too often in California. The finish was long lasting with mocha and pepper finishing off the enjoyment. The wine is aged in French oak barrels (15% new) for 19 months. About 150 cases were produced.
Edward Wallo, owner and winemaker for Yorkville Cellars, has planted all six of the Noble Bordeaux red varietals. He makes stand-alone varietals as well as a traditional Bordeaux style blend incorporating all six varietals which are organically grown. To read more on Yorkville Cellars see a previous published story at:
His Carménère has won many awards over the years. He has received 94 points from Tasting.com and 93 points from the San Diego International Wine Competition, including a Gold Medal. The wine lists for $40. Truly a remarkable price given the uniqueness and scarcity of Carménère plantings in the California.
The Food Pairing
The 2016 Yorkville Cellars Carménère was paired with a seared and BBQ’ed Filet Mignon and topped with a homemade blue cheese, chive and butter compote, served medium rare. Accompanied were pan seared Bok Choy in garlic, olive oil and chili pepper flakes. Also, sliced shiitake mushrooms were lightly grilled on the BBQ with a Chaka sauce and a Yukon Gold potato (not shown).
A wonderful meal this evening along with an extraordinary wine was the ultimate way to end the week!
Sláinte,
Michael
2017 Wood Family Vineyards Petite Sirah – A Very Pleasant Surprise
This didn’t start out to be one of my “wine stories” as we just wanted a simple wine without pulling something very special out of the cellar. When I heard what the meal being prepared, I thought Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, etc., to counterbalance the spiciness. Looked up some different varietals and decided to grab this Petite Sirah. What transformed was spectacular for an impromptu decision.
This wine had an intense deep red/purple hue that was almost “black” in color. It possessed a heavy body and viscosity. On the nose dark fruit, cocoa and black pepper. On the palate blackberry, blueberry were dominate with strong hints of ripe plums and just the right amount of oak from the barrel, tempered with vanilla residue. The finish was long lasting and powerful which was needed with the food pairing. The acidity and tannins were big and bold but the fruit kept them “in check”.
As an educational note, Petite Sirah is not a “smaller” version of Syrah as it is a wholly different varietal. The background on Petite Sirah is that it is the offspring of Syrah and Peloursin (a scarce and almost extinct grape).
A fantastically prepared Andouille Cajun Rice Skillet dish was chosen to pair with the wine. This was a “warm temperature flavor” dish with spiciness and far reaching textual appeal in the mouth. The recipe called for Andouille Cajun sausage, yellow onion, red & yellow bell peppers, minced garlic, Tony Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning, kosher salt, tomato paste, fresh sliced Roma tomatoes and brown rice. Paired with the Wood Family Vineyards Petite Sirah was an excellent choice.
This wine goes for $30 at the winery and is worth every penny. I am headed back this week to pick up a few more bottles as that was the last one!
Sláinte,
Michael
2018 Yorkville Cellars Cabernet Franc
Had never experienced Yorkville Cellars Cabernet Franc before this evening. They continue to impress me with their organic grapes and Bordeaux varietals. For a story on who Yorkville Cellars is, click on:
On the eyes this medium weight with a vibrant and royal purplish coloration beckons the adventure to unfold. On the nose soft violet aromas coupled with plums and cherries awaken the senses. On the palate, cherries and a spiciness of everything quintessential to Cabernet Franc present themselves (dried figs, raisin, raspberry, vanilla, sage) in a joyful reunion in the mouth. The tannins are held in check and balanced nicely with the acid (6.3 g/l for acid and 3.70 pH). The abbreviated finish is complex and structured. The 2018 vintage is 90% Cabernet Franc with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon providing just enough structure and body but does not overshadow the Cabernet Franc.
The grapes come from Yorkville Highlands in Mendocino from the Rennie Organic Vineyard. It is aged 14 months in French oak barrels. Over the years, Yorkville Cellars Cabernet Franc has won Double Gold at San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition in 2015 and has scored up to 93 points from Beverage Tasting Institute in 2014.
The Cabernet Franc was paired with a stir-fried ginger steak with green onions and broccoli. A mix of white and brown rice and fresh side salad finish completed the meal. The pairing was harmonious and allowed both the steak and wine to shine on their own merits.
I will be very curious how this wine rates in the Cabernet Franc Wine Competition on December 3, 2020 as they have entered the competition. All wines will be “judged blind” by both Professional Judges and People’s Choice Judges.
Edward Wallo, the winemaker and owner, believes this will continue to age nicely between 3 to 8 years. Currently listed at the winery for $36.
Sláinte,
Michael
2017 Maritana Chardonnay Sonoma County Russian River LA RIVIÈRE
Dinner last night with a magical 2017 Maritana Chardonnay Sonoma County Russian River LA RIVIÈRE (meaning the river, Russian River). While Donald Patz had many years ago produced Chardonnay’s he has been known as an industry leader for his Pinot Noir’s (Dr Pinot!). I was expecting a good solid wine, but what my palate tasted was “total astonishment”. First on the eyes, a bright clarity and ethereal straw golden yellow color. It was a refined and delicate Chardonnay with hints of soft lemon custard and a Red Delicious apple, mildly sweet with a caramel finish. As the wine settles in the back of mouth, a minerality of a babbling brook or creek came to mind. This wine was of another spectrum of quality found only in wines in a much higher in price range ($100). LA RIVIÈRE is a blend of 55% Dutton Ranch Shop Block, 22% Martinelli River Road Vineyard and 18% Susanna’s Vineyard and finally 5% Ritchie Vineyard for the 2017. It uses 90% once and twice used French oak barrels and 10% new French oak barrels. It is sur lies aged and goes through 100% malolactic fermentation. Donald’s Chardonnay’s will continue to develop complexity while aging over 5 to 8 years (stored properly). This wine reminded me of the higher end Kistler Chardonnay or Peter Michael Chardonnay, specifically La Carriere. The current release and price for LA RIVIÈRE is $55 for the 2018.
Garlicky shrimp with broccoli, served over spinach fettucine noodles and topped with toasted Panko crumbs with lemon zest and parmesan cheese. Additional baby asparagus and a fresh garden salad were served for a delightful pairing.
For a complete story on Donald Patz’s wines see: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2018/12/06/maritana-vineyards-four-aces-on-the-first-vintage/
Sláinte,
Michael
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